Are Extracts in Cosmetics as Natural as They Seem?

Are Extracts in Cosmetics as Natural as They Seem?

In the cosmetics industry, plant extracts are some of the most widely used ingredients. But what exactly are they, how are they made, and can we trust all of them? Let’s dive deeper into the facts about extracts in cosmetics.

1. How Are Extracts Made? – Solvent vs. Grinding Methods

Solvent Method

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Various solvents used in the solvent method, such as water and alcohol, play a crucial role in extracting plant-based ingredients for cosmetics.

There are two primary methods of creating plant extracts. The first and most common is through extraction using a solvent. This process involves immersing the plant in a liquid, which can range from pure water to alcohol. The choice of solvent depends on the plant and the target molecules, as some compounds, like essential oils, alkaloids, and resins, are not water-soluble and require alcohol for effective extraction. Variables such as extraction time, temperature, and pressure also significantly influence the final product. Most extracts in cosmetics are made using this solvent method due to its efficiency and versatility.

Grinding Method

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Grinding method in action: Plant parts are blended and filtered to create extracts, often requiring additives like preservatives to maintain stability.

The second method involves grinding parts of the plant. For example, some manufacturers grind and filter the inner flesh of aloe leaves to produce aloe vera leaf extract. This approach is often used when the plant naturally contains a high amount of liquid, such as water.

2. Chemical Additives May Be Hidden in Extracts

Many extracts are not purely derived from the plant and solvent; they often include chemical additives such as preservatives or pH balancers. These additives are necessary for extending shelf life or achieving specific properties like viscosity or stability.


In some cases, these additives may not even appear on the label. According to the US FDA labeling guidelines, "any ingredient of another ingredient" that is "present at an insignificant level and having no technical or functional effect" doesn’t need to be declared. However, there are no established methods or standards recognized by the FDA to determine whether an ingredient is truly "insignificant."


A notable example is grapefruit seed extract. While some claim it has antimicrobial properties, research indicates that its efficacy often comes from synthetic preservatives added during processing. One study concluded that the "potent antimicrobial activity" attributed to grapefruit seed extract is largely due to these synthetic agents (von Woedtke et al., 1999).

3. Extracts Can Be Used to Mislead Consumers

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Consumers often face confusion when deciphering extract labels and ingredient lists, highlighting the need for greater transparency in cosmetics.

Some brands use numerous extracts to create the illusion that their products contain minimal synthetic chemicals. By listing many extracts—sometimes as many as ten or more—they can obscure less desirable ingredients in the labeling. This practice leverages the FDA guideline that only requires ingredients present at more than 1% to be listed in descending order of concentration. Ingredients under 1% can be listed in any order after that.


For example, consider a hypothetical product composed of 95% water, 3% lemon extract, 0.8% parabens, and 0.2% of various other extracts. The label might read: water, lemon extract, extract A, extract B, extract C, extract D, extract E, extract F, parabens. This order makes it seem like the product is rich in natural extracts while downplaying the presence of parabens.

Join Us in Taking Action

We believe consumers deserve full transparency about the ingredients in their cosmetics. That’s why we have launched a petition to the FDA, urging them to improve labeling guidelines and require clearer disclosures of chemical additives and their origins in extracts. If you care about what goes into your cosmetics including baby wipes, we encourage you to sign our petition here

Final Thoughts

Not all extracts are harmful or ineffective. However, understanding how they are made and labeled can empower you to make more informed decisions. By keeping these tips in mind, you can better navigate the cosmetics aisle and choose products that align with your values and needs.